Need a basement waterproofed?
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Services
Kinds of waterproofing
The kinds of waterproofing people book most. Open one to see what it covers.
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One post, the whole situation handled
Several jobs bought as one outcome — one Tasker, one price to agree, no coordinating three trades yourself.
The cheap half, first
Eavestroughs cleared, downspouts extended well away from the wall, window wells drained and the grade checked — the outside causes ruled out before anyone prices excavation.
Post this taskBefore the basement is finished
Waterproofing and drainage completed and tested before framing goes in, so the finish is not built over a problem that is still there.
Post this taskAfter the water
The wet material removed and disposed of, the space dried properly, and the cause fixed — in that order, so the repair is not done around damp drywall.
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Other things people post
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Back on top of math
A weekly hour on the topics that slipped, worked through at the kitchen table or over video.
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Walked while you work
A midday walk on the days the office runs long, with a note on how it went.
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Flat-pack, standing up
The wardrobe, the desk and the bed frame built and levelled, with the cardboard taken away.
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The list on the fridge
The shelf that never went up, the door that sticks, the light that flickers — one visit instead of three.
Post this taskWhat to know about waterproofing
A wet basement almost always has a cheap cause and an expensive one, and the order you investigate them in decides what you spend. The cheap causes are outside and above ground: blocked eavestroughs, a downspout discharging beside the wall, grade that falls toward the house rather than away, a window well with no drainage. The expensive causes are below ground: a cracked foundation wall, failed or absent exterior membrane, a blocked weeping tile. Anyone who quotes the expensive fix without ruling out the cheap ones has skipped the diagnosis.
Interior and exterior waterproofing solve different problems and are often presented as alternatives. An interior system — a drainage channel cut around the inside perimeter of the slab, feeding a sump — does not stop water entering the wall; it manages water that has already entered and gets it out before it reaches the floor. Exterior waterproofing excavates to the footing, cleans the wall, applies a membrane and usually replaces the weeping tile, which stops water reaching the wall in the first place. Exterior costs considerably more and disturbs the yard; interior is less invasive and does not dry the wall itself.
Cracks are not all the same and the distinction matters. A hairline vertical crack in a poured wall is usually shrinkage and is injectable from inside with polyurethane or epoxy for relatively little. A horizontal crack, a stair-step crack in block, or one that is wider at one end is a structural signal and needs an engineer's opinion before anyone injects anything — sealing a moving crack simply moves the water to the next weakness. Photograph what you have and describe it accurately when you post; it changes who should be quoting.
After you post, here’s exactly what happens
- 1Offers arriveEach one carries a price and an approach, from verified Taskers only.
- 2Ask before you chooseEquipment, timing, whether they’ve worked in a building like yours.
- 3Accept oneYour payment is held by Taskly. Nothing is paid out yet.
- 4Confirm when it’s doneThe money releases and your receipt arrives by email.
What an interior system usually covers
- Breaking out the slab around the inside perimeter
- Laying new drainage pipe in stone, falling to a sump
- A sump pit and pump discharging well away from the house
- A membrane up the wall to direct seepage into the channel
- The slab restored over the channel
Exterior work is a different job entirely — excavation, wall preparation, membrane and weeping tile replacement — and is priced per wall.
Try nowWhat moves the price
- Interior drainage versus exterior excavation and membrane
- Linear footage of wall being treated, not floor area
- Depth to the footing, and access for a machine to reach it
- What is against the wall outside — a deck, a driveway, mature planting
- Foundation type: poured concrete, block or rubble each behave differently
- Whether a sump and pump already exist and can be reused
- Whether an engineer's opinion is needed before anything is sealed
Worth asking before you agree
- Have the eavestroughs, downspouts, grade and window wells been ruled out?
- Does this stop water reaching the wall, or manage it once it is in?
- What is the warranty, what does it cover, and is it transferable?
- Is the discharge going far enough from the house to not come back?
- For a crack: is this shrinkage or structural, and how do you know?
- What is the plan if excavation exposes something unexpected?
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Why Taskly
What you can actually count on
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You set the budget
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Pay only when done
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Every kind of waterproofing
Questions
Frequently asked
Answers to what people actually search for.
Interior or exterior — which one do I need?
They do different things. Exterior stops water reaching the wall: excavate to the footing, clean and membrane the wall, replace the weeping tile. Interior manages water that is already in the wall and drains it to a sump before it reaches the floor. Exterior costs more and disturbs the yard; interior is less invasive and leaves the wall wet.
Should I try the cheap fixes first?
Yes, and anyone honest will suggest it. Blocked eavestroughs, a downspout discharging beside the wall, ground sloping toward the house and a window well with no drainage cause a large share of wet basements, and they cost a fraction of anything below grade. A quote for excavation that has not ruled them out has skipped the diagnosis.
Is a crack in my foundation serious?
It depends on its shape. A hairline vertical crack in a poured wall is usually shrinkage and can be injected from inside. A horizontal crack, a stair-step crack through block, or one noticeably wider at one end suggests movement and warrants an engineer before anything is sealed — injecting a moving crack just relocates the water.
Does a sump pump need a backup?
It is worth having one. The storms that overwhelm a basement are frequently the same storms that take the power out, and a sump with no pump is a hole that fills. A battery backup or a water-powered secondary is a small cost against the thing it exists to prevent.
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